Jelly Hash

In this issue, we will describe how to prepare our jelly, a series of extractions resulting in a resin of excellent quality.

RESIN OBTAINED BY DRY-EXTRACTION IN A CURING CONTAINER

Dry extraction

First of all, begin with the easiest and most familiar part for any cannabis consumer: dry and/or ice trichome extraction. The result will be the first component of our jelly.
To work in dry conditions, you can use any of the classic systems that everyone is familiar with: rods in a sieve, manual shaking, cylinder-shaped extraction containers... As long as the material used is of good quality, any of these systems will work. I recommend that the weed be cured for at least a couple of months, to avoid chlorophyll as much as possible, and that it be in its prime, strength wise. One thing I like about this method is that it's not necessary to wait for the resin to dry; the terpenes remain more intact, and so we usually retain a better aroma/flavour. However, if you wish to keep the quality high, extracting a decent percentage of the whole weight without introducing impurities is rather complicated.
Inserting dry ice in the rotating drums works very well and increases production; this allows you to maintain the low temperature steady, while also ensuring that the trichomes rupture optimally. Remember that we're talking about dry ice, also known as card ice, which doesn't leave any liquid residue when it evaporates - this makes it a powerful ally. Because of the large quantities of carbon dioxide released, you should always work in a well-ventilated environment, and wear thermal gloves when handling it, in order to avoid skin damage or damage to your respiratory system.
In this issue we will also describe how Juanito Manoverde showed us his effective and interesting method that uses liquid nitrogen, obtaining excellent results in just a short time. I find his method quite recommendable.

PREPARING THE ICE AND OTHER MATERIALS

Ice-water extraction: Ice

In this case, the best way to maximise your results is to opt for ice-water extraction. By using good-quality screens and correct micronage you've already won half the battle; then you need to gather a good quantity of ice in order to maintain water temperature as low as possible during the process.
Although there are washers especially for this use, which work quite well, in my experience it is easier to control the process if you have the time to carry it out by hand. Beating the compound lightly means being less aggressive and so rupturing less vegetable material that you aren't interested in. Using a large container means giving the buds more space to open. A mass of damp weed in 15 litres of water is very different from a mass of damp weed in 100 litres of water, where there is definitely enough space for it to unfurl and free its load.
Using small leaves from the manicure gives good results, but if you can use buds, the best way is to shred them slightly with your hands instead of grinding them. Otherwise most of the resin will remain trapped inside. Quality is improved by alternately beating the compound and letting it settle (15 minutes per cycle); it's important to keep adding ice so that a minimum amount is always visible. This method is no longer effective if the temperature rises. The idea is that frozen trichomes fall into ice water, while vegetable matter floats on an air-entrained concentrate.
Once this part is complete, the next step is to catch the first floating layers in a strainer, crushing them in your hands to try and free as much liquid as possible. Then move over to another container where you've placed your wire netting; of course, the thicker part is turned toward the inside and the thinnest part toward the top. After siphoning everything, place each net on a dishtowel to remove any excess water. Then gather the product and place it on a plate, using a knife to grind the grain as much as possible, in order to be able to strain it in a colander, as if it were a cheese grater, applying a slight pressure with your fingers and rolling the compound until all that remains on the plate is a fine powder.

RESIN OBTAINED WITH ICE

The powder must be left on a piece of cardboard or on a paper towel for a few days (at least a week) to expel any remaining humidity. Never press it right away because, although the result might look good at first glance, it will crumble or harden within a few days, losing all elasticity and organoleptic properties. In other words, if you don't let it settle, all your work will be ruined.
When it has dried completely, it's best to keep it in this powder form and just work the part you want to use. In this case, save it for subsequent blending with the oil that you'll extract as second component.

SURGICAL STAINLESS STEEL EXTRACTOR

THE GAS STARTS RISING,CARRYING THE TRICHOMES WITH IT

Extracting the BHO (Butane Hash Oil)

At this point, you have one of the two parts you'll be using, and it's time to turn to the more complicate and delicate part of the process - extracting the BHO, which calls for great care. First of all, I must thank my friend, master Leocadius - a genuine web crack as far as extractions go - for advising and helping me as I wrote on the subject.
Extracting oil with gas is simple; doing it properly is a whole different story, and requires a job that is partly confectioner and partly chemist. Most extractions I've witnessed show a high level of retained gas, and the principle aim is to avoid this, because the mercaptans contained in the gas are extremely toxic and shouldn't be consumed. The word mercaptan means "capturing mercury", a substance you certainly don't want to come into close contact with.
The first step is to try and obtain a high-quality and refined gas - some of the most common types are colibrì, vector or z-plus, as their impurity contents is much lower. I use a surgical stainless steel extractor, made by Leocadius, which has a section to capture activated carbon, so the gas is already free of contaminating substances and traces by the time it reaches the weed.
Fill the extractor with material, not too tightly but without leaving empty spaces, because the gas needs to be able to pass through quickly, and it needs to be in contact with the most extended surface of weed possible. Once again, the same as during the "ice" procedure, if you're using buds you must crumble them with your fingers, not with a grinder. When the extractor is full, it needs to be placed in a freezer with the bottles of gas you intend to use for at least thirty minutes. Leaving it overnight is even better.

PLACING THE TRAY IN A BAIN-MARIE

Now you need a Pyrex container - borosilicate glass has higher resistance to thermal changes, solvents and acids compared to regular glass. The bigger your container, the easier it is to carry out your purge; you also need another container, larger than the first, for your bain-marie.
After having done all this - and always outdoors - it's time to put the gas through the bud-filled tube on top of the Pyrex container. In just a few seconds you can observe the liquefied gas rising and covering the bottom; if the first bottle starts shrinking it's best to change to the second one right away, to maintain pressure.
Having already prepared a dish with several inches of solution, place it in the second container, previously filled with very hot water. Throughout the process it's important to keep far away from any stoves, lighters or closed spaces in general. You'll see how quickly the water starts evaporating, forming bubbles that you need to puncture with a pin to free the gas. In just a few minutes, you'll find a layer of oil at the bottom, that will get harder and harder but won't be ready to use yet.

THE FIRST PURGE

This first purge only takes about 2 minutes, all in all.
Let everything settle briefly while you reheat the water and repeat the previous step, placing the Pyrex in a bain-marie; puncture the bubbles that start forming again. If you're lucky and carried out the process properly, this purge should already leave you with something that's fairly clear. This second purge should take around 15 minutes.
After finishing the second purge, wait at least an hour while everything cools down, then reheat it one last time, which makes extracting the result easier. Be quick, because the compound will harden so much in just a few seconds that you won't be able to remove it. Use a series of blades to catch part of the oil on each one; it will crystalize, forming attractive gems, in a range of colours that go from pale yellow to dark amber.

BHO,READY FOR CONSUMPTION

Now you have your BHO, the strongest extraction possible. In this case it's used in combination with dry pollen but I recommend that you keep a portion aside and try it like that, because it's truly a delight for the senses. Only if you have a high tolerance level, though, because otherwise it could leave you KO before you notice! This type of extract offers its best strength within the first week, so you shouldn't prepare much more than you plan to use; if you have an excess amount

BUDDER,EMULSIFIED BHO

and wish to keep it for a while, be sure to freeze it to maintain its properties.
As a fun anecdote, I remember performing my first extractions of this type a few years ago - in spite of having read and heard innumerable times that the process should never be carried out indoors, I thought that the final stage really wasn't so dangerous, and I decided to perform the purge in a bain-marie over the saucepan on my small cooker. I thought I could save a few minutes this way. But I had barely set it down when I saw a huge ball of fire lighting the dishcloth and food wrappers, and singeing my eyebrows and beard. Luckily I had an extinguisher on hand and was able to put out the fire, but I can promise that I was so scared that I never even think of smoking anything else all day!

Preparing the Jelly

Now you have everything you need, and, with a little margin, can decide the quantities on a personal basis - however, a good foundation is 25% BHO for every 75% of resin. The rest depends on the texture and strength you wish to obtain; the result is so creamy that a light pressure is enough to amalgamate and unite it. Actually, it would be hard to avoid this result.

MOULDING THE JELLY

This jelly is without a doubt one of the strongest and impressive hashes available for consumption; touching, moulding and observing its gelatinous appearance is always a pleasure.A crystal pipe is probably the best way to enjoy its many properties. Taking all those pains to extract resin just to reapply it to weed or - worse! - tobacco doesn't make much sense. Nor does it make sense to use the oil to camouflage a mediocre pollen; the only reason for creating this blend is the high quality of each individual component which, together, are even more easily manipulated, allowing us to dose strength and consumption more effectively.
The level of purity is sufficient to consume it in a crystal nail file or a titanium swing, vanishing without a trace and offering a flavour, scent and "clean effect" without additions. For me it led to an important change in my appreciation and enjoyment of this type of extracts with crystal pipes, which allow you to avoid using lighters, although you still have to use specialised gadgets for oil or ceramic-tipped heaters to begin combustion. A possibility for the most health-conscious is converting a vaporizer to a bong (for example),

BUBBLER PREPARED FOR SMOKING CONCENTRATES

                                                                                                                                achieving a clear, rehydrated vapour, which is much appreciated.

For your next manicure, I encourage you to save any small leaves or low buds and then try to carry out your own extractions - I'm sure the results will amaze you. Happy smoking, X.

JELLY,READY FOR CONSUMPTION